Our Stay in Dolores, CO

Colorado

June - July 2021

A Change of States and Scenery

We had an excellent drive from Medanales, New Mexico, to Dolores, Colorado! The moment we crossed the border, the scenery changed rapidly, turning from a dry desert into a leafy forest landscape.

A Charming Welcome to Dolores, Colorado

We were welcomed by a charming house located right downtown, directly across from the historic railroad house. Even Hemmes felt at ease right away! After dinner, we stretched our legs with a walk along the river leading toward the canyon. We were pleased that we had found another running trail that we could start from home.

Running

The next day, I started early with a morning run following the beautiful Dolores River, which we had walked the day before. It felt great to be running again, especially since the 7,000-foot altitude kept the morning temperature relatively low and refreshing. Two days later, I enjoyed another great run under the same cool conditions.

The McPhee Overlook Trail, Not an Easy Hike, But Worth the Climb

We also hiked the McPhee Overlook Trail in the the San Juan National Forest. This trail starts in Dolores and winds along the cliffs above McPhee Reservoir, one of the largest reservoirs in Colorado. It wasn’t an easy hike, since the trail starts with steep climbs and rocky switchbacks, so we ended up turning around at the 5.5-mile mark. However, the view of the water was amazing, as were the high-desert flora and the wildflowers blossoming along the path.

From Boomtown to Adventure Basecamp

For us, Dolores offered the perfect starting point for exploring the traditional Puebloan history and regional heritage, with Mesa Verde National Park and Canyons of the Ancients National Monument just a few miles away. However, we noticed it is also a vibrant outdoor adventure hub offering fishing, whitewater rafting, and kayaking right on the river and reservoir, as well as miles of mountain biking and camping trails throughout the surrounding San Juan National Forest.

The river was originally named El Rio de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (The River of Our Lady of Sorrows) by Spanish explorers in the 18th century. More than a century later, when the Rio Grande Southern Railroad was built through the valley in 1891, a settlement started on the river’s banks, and it took the river’s name, officially incorporating as “Dolores” in 1900.

Today, this railroad is a relic from the past, proudly remembered by the Galloping Goose Historical Society Museum, which is a replica of the town’s original 1891 Rio Grande Southern Railroad depot. The Galloping Goose No. 5 is a restored, gasoline-powered 1930s railcar that kept the local mountain community connected by transporting mail and passengers through the Great Depression.

During our travels, we have often noticed that when the railroad disappeared, the community did not last. However, Dolores, still a small community of just under 1,000 residents, seems to be an exception, having successfully evolved into a vibrant outdoor adventure hub and an archaeological entrance.

The Journey Continues, Onto Copper Mountain

Eight days later, we were on the road again after a fabulous stay in Dolores. The only negative thing was that our stay felt way too short. However, our next destination, Copper Mountain, was waiting for us.