A 150-Mile Journey Through the Heart of the Catskills

New York

October 2025

The Scenic Route to the Scenic Byway

After all the hiking, walking, and running, we gave ourselves a rest day and took a scenic drive through the Catskill Mountains, the Catskill Mountains Scenic Byway.

According to the brochure, the official route began in the town of Andes, about 21 miles south of Stamford. We found that this 20-mile stretch on NY-10 to the starting point was already stunning with bright fall colors. It made us wonder what more the actual Scenic Byway could offer.

Andes, The Courageous Sky Town

Our scenic Catskills route began at a large sign welcoming us to Andes, NY, featuring descriptions like “The Land in the Sky,” settled in 1819, and “Epicenter of the Anti-Rent War.” While the first two were self-explanatory, the latter comment made us curious.

We learned that in the mid-1800s, Andes’ tenant farmers fought against the patroon system, a remnant of Dutch colonial control under which wealthy landlords, patroons, owned large estates and demanded yearly rent forever. The farmers’ protests led to land reforms, resulting in the New York State Constitution of 1846, which ended this abusive, oppressive, feudal-style system.

A Few Scenic Stops on NYS Route 28

We pulled over at the beautiful Palmer Hill scenic viewpoint for a quick stop! We had a breathtaking panorama right into the heart of the Catskill High Peaks. This fantastic natural treasure, over 500,000 acres, was protected by the “forever wild” clause of the New York State Constitution back in 1894. Today, this area continues to provide clean drinking water, crucial wildlife habitat, and endless outdoor activities.

We also made a quick stop near the Pepacton Reservoir for amazing views! This was the site of the Dunraven Bridge, a covered wooden bridge over the East Branch of the Delaware River, which washed away in 1956. You can still see its stone supports today.

Small-Town Charm, Frozen in Time

In Margaretville, a charming town in the Catskills, we crossed the bridge over the East Branch of the Delaware River. Wandering down Main Street, we enjoyed the small-town atmosphere with colorful, well-maintained storefronts and cozy cafés: it felt surprisingly untouched by the last century.

A Kaleidoscope Unseen

Since it was closed for the day, we missed out on getting inside the Kaatskill Kaleidoscope, which is officially the World’s Largest Kaleidoscope! It’s housed inside an old grain silo that holds a Guinness World Record. Instead, we walked around the property. The views of the Catskill Mountains and the Esopus Creek were stunning here, so it was still a great stop!

The View from the Base

My husband climbed the Upper Esopus Fire Tower alone; I stayed on the ground. The sight of those open metal stairs is enough to trigger my crippling fear of heights. Just a few steps, and my heart starts racing, leaving me paralyzed: certainly not wanting to go up, but also not daring to come back down. I’ve accepted not to try anymore.

This fire tower is a replacement of the original that stood watch against forest fires until the 1990s. Initially, there were 19 fire towers in the Catskills; only six are restored or replaced to offer visitors a fantastic view. I happily spent the time wandering the base, admiring the tower’s beauty and history, and even got a glimpse of the mountain scenery.

A Short Stop at Ashokan Reservoir

We next stopped at the Woodstock Dike Trailhead, hoping for an easy hour’s walk along the edge of the Ashokan Reservoir. However, this part of the rail trail offered limited views of the water. Instead, we walked up the dike near the parking lot and took a few photos of the reservoir. So, a little earlier than planned, we headed to Kingston, NY, for a visit and lunch.

Kaaterskill Falls, The Catskills' Waterfall Adventure

After a pleasant lunch in Kingston, NY, we resumed our scenic drive through the Catskills. The official Catskill Mountains Scenic Byway had ended in West-Hurley, NY, just after we visited the reservoir, so we were now following a different route.

We were fortunate to find a spot in the crowded parking lot for the Kaaterskill Falls trail. The falls are one of the Catskills’ most popular highlights and one of New York’s tallest waterfalls. This natural wonder features a 260-foot, two-step drop.

Like many other visitors, we absolutely enjoyed the scale and scenery of the gorge. However, as we expected this late in the year, the water wasn’t tumbling, but merely trickling over the edge.

A Ukrainian Treasure in The Catskills

Although our plan was to drive straight home after a long, intensive day full of new impressions, we stumbled upon this little gem along NY-23A: a traditional Stave Church, St. John the Baptist Ukrainian Catholic Church & Grazhda. The last time we had seen a Stave Church was during our travel in Norway, precisely 20 years ago!

This stunning wood-crafted basilica is built entirely without nails by Ukrainian immigrants and refugees from the Soviet era. It’s so cool to find these hidden gems, with their history and heritage; it always makes the extra stop completely worthwhile.

A Day Well Spent in the Catskills

While a single-day trip can never fully reveal the essence of an area, today’s extensive 150-mile scenic drive gave us an in-depth impression of the Catskill Mountains. We came for the autumn colors but discovered and got so much more: a gorgeous blend of nature, culture, and history. In the end, it was a beautiful spent day that exceeded all expectations.